Few jewellery designers have brought the ancient world into the modern age with the imagination and confidence of Ilias Lalaounis (1920-2013). Revered for his sculptural gold creations and historically inspired designs, Lalaounis transformed archaeology, mythology and classical civilisation into jewellery that feels both timeless and distinctly modern.
28 May 2026
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Born in Athens, Lalaounis came from a family of goldsmiths and watchmakers. Although he studied economics and law at the University of Athens, his career was shaped by jewellery from an early age. In 1940, he joined Zolotas, the distinguished Athens jewellery house founded by his uncle in 1895. It was here that he began developing the ideas that would later define his own name: a deep respect for ancient Greek art, an interest in historic goldsmithing techniques, and a belief that jewellery could be both beautiful and culturally significant.
Lalaounis, a pair of 18ct gold clip-on earrings (£1,500-1,800)
In the 1950s and 1960s, at a time when much of the international jewellery world was focused on gemstones and sleek modernism, Lalaounis looked instead to the past. Drawing inspiration from Greek, Minoan, Mycenaean, Byzantine and other historic sources, he revived techniques such as granulation, filigree, hand-hammering and woven goldwork. His pieces often have the presence of museum artefacts, but were designed to be worn and enjoyed.
In 1969, Lalaounis established his own company, marking the beginning of a distinctive chapter in 20th-century jewellery design. His work helped bring Greek goldsmithing to an international audience, with the brand later expanding to cities including London, Paris, New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong. His designs attracted a high-profile following, with admirers including Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Barbra Streisand.
A gold and enamel shield form brooch, by Ilias Lalaounis (Sold for £1,820 inc. fees)
For collectors, the appeal of Lalaounis lies in the strength of his artistic identity. His jewellery is instantly recognisable not through obvious logos, but through craftsmanship, texture and form. Coiled shapes, ram's heads, mythological creatures, classical motifs, hammered surfaces and richly worked yellow gold all appear throughout his collections.
Pieces from the 1960s to the 1980s are especially desirable, particularly those that show the house's characteristic use of high-carat gold, sculptural design and historic references. Collectors often look for bold cuffs, necklaces, earrings and rings with strong Greek or Byzantine influence, as well as pieces with textured, hand-worked surfaces.
A gold and ruby Etruscan style torque ring, by Ilias Lalaounis (Sold for £585 inc. fees)
Unlike trend-led jewellery, Lalaounis designs have a timeless quality. They feel ancient and modern at once, which is a key reason they continue to resonate with collectors today. The strongest pieces are not simply decorative; they tell a story, connecting the wearer to history.
For those looking to collect jewellery with beauty, presence and cultural depth, Ilias Lalaounis remains one of the most compelling names in 20th-century design. His work offers more than adornment; it is a celebration of gold, history and the lasting power of craftsmanship.
jewellery@sworder.co.uk | 01279 817778
This September, Sworders’ London Gallery is honoured to present Nourishing: Reflections of Resilience, a selling exhibition by contemporary artist Courtney Bae.
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Following two successful valuation events held in partnership with Britten Pears Arts, Sworders is delighted to announce the third in its series of Art & Antiques Valuation Days, this time taking up residence at The Red House in Aldeburgh during the internationally renowned Aldeburgh Festival.
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Few jewellery designers have brought the ancient world into the modern age with the imagination and confidence of Ilias Lalaounis (1920-2013). Revered for his sculptural gold creations and historically inspired designs, Lalaounis transformed archaeology, mythology and classical civilisation into jewellery that feels both timeless and distinctly modern.
28 May 2026